Are amphoteric and nonionic surfactants capable of removing silicones on hair?
—SEEKING FACTS ON SURFACTANTS:

Dear Seeking:
As a hair care formulator, I get this question a lot from salon professionals and consumers alike. There is a misconception out there that all silicones build up on the hair fiber, which has demonized silicones as an entire class of materials. Consumers also think that silicones build up on hair or are incapable of being removed from the hair because of their oil-soluble nature. Fortunately, we cleanse our hair with shampoo, voiding the [non] issue. But are gentle amphoteric and nonionic surfactants capable of removing these silicones?

I suppose it’s not whether they’re capable, but to what degree. It’s well understood by formulators that amphoteric and nonionic surfactants are less efficient (or, more gentle) than their ionic counterparts like SLS or SLES. Because of this, I would regard their cleansing abilities alone rather weak compared to anionics. It’s not that they can’t remove buildup from hair, they’re just not very good at it. It’s also why we use amphoteric and nonionic surfactants in combinations with other anionics. Anionics provide the cleansing power while amphoterics and nonionics improve foaming and help lower surface tension which results in greater cleansing overall.¹

It also depends on the silicone as not all silicones are created equal. The washability from hair depends on their cationicity, ability to cross-link or form films on the hair fiber with itself, and overall substantivity. Some silicones, like the amine-functionalized amodimethicone, are designed to remain on the hair to confer its benefit (in this case, color protection). One 1988 study evaluated amodimethicone versus dimethiconol and found that only half as much dimethiconol was deposited onto hair compared to amodimethicone, yet amodimethicone remained more durable on hair over washing.² This is not only due to its cationicity, but the ability of the silanol groups to further cross-link. Even after six washes with a 6% active SLES solution, amodimethicone levels remained constant on hair compared to decreasing dimethiconol. If I color treated my hair, this sounds like a benefit I would love. Of course, keep in mind this study just evaluated a 6% SLES solution, which may not reflect sophisticated shampoos on the market. At some point, the silicones are completely removed from the hair.

I’m new to the industry. How do I become a better formulator? Where do I even start?
—LIKE A SPONGE

Dear Sponge:
Whether you’re an aspiring formulator, a budding microbiologist, or a stickler for quality control, you have probably learned most of what you know on the job. Wouldn’t it be nice to pick up a book and gain some practical experience? Unfortunately, there are very few books on the varying facets of cosmetic science that teach you all the subtle nuances you need to know with context. Fortunately, we have something better than books available to us—people!

I used to cringe when I would hear my mom or former college professors tell me networking is the key to career success. Who likes talking to people? Well, they weren’t wrong! There are so many talented, experienced chemists and leaders in the industry who are willing to share their knowledge with you.

I am so fortunate to have multiple people I consider mentors—the late Dr. Ron DiSalvo, who taught me everything I need to know about ingredients and, more importantly, the right questions to ask the raw material suppliers. There is also the dye synthesis chemist and former president of a billion-dollar hair company, who not only taught me the science of hair color chemistry, but how to be a leader as well. Then there is the formulator-turned-salesperson-turned formulator who showed me how to establish respectful relationships within the industry. I wouldn’t be where I am today without them, and the many other colleagues I consider mentors in the industry.

We are also so fortunate to have another people-resource at our fingertips—the raw material suppliers. There are so many talented scientists and technical personnel at every ingredient company, so there is no shortage of information flow to the chemist. They are very understanding and helpful with even the most fundamental of questions—no question is a dumb question. I have found they will generally go to any length to help you with what you need to know, and it’s pretty cool when they end up learning something from your inquiry too.

There are a couple guidelines to follow when finding a mentor or using an industry resource. Be respectful of their time and provide feedback on any information they have given you. Information flow shouldn’t be one way—be a “giver” as well as a “taker!” Also, don’t restrict yourself to networking with only certain groups of people, like formulators, within the industry. Much of what has made me successful in my roles is exposure to other facets within the industry.

People aside, there are industry trade publications—much like Happi. Follow them! Join the Society of Cosmetic Chemists too, if you’re not already a member. Not only does this give you access to the largest pool of people in the industry, but the national online portal has many additional resources tucked in there. I personally am a fan of the Journal of Cosmetic Science. With your SCC membership, you also become an IFSCC member with access to its global resources as well, such as Kosmet. There are a few scientists whose research I have read every publication of. Sometimes I fangirled when meeting them IRL. 

So, there you have it! If you want to learn more, the information is out there.  

Do you have a mentor? I’d love to hear your story! 

References:

1. Blagojević, S.N., Blagojević, S.M. & Pejić, N.D. Performance and Efficiency of Anionic Dishwashing Liquids with Amphoteric and Nonionic Surfactants. J Surfact Deterg 19, 363–372 (2016).
2. Disapio A, Fridd P. Silicones: use of substantive properties on skin and hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1988 Apr;10(2):75-89.

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Valerie George
[email protected]
 
Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist. Do you have a formulation question you want answered? Email her at the address above.